July 19, 2010

Make Infused Vanilla Bean Oil


I infuse vanilla beans into jojoba oil and use this infused oil as part of the oil in my lotions, creams, hair conditioners, body butters, body oils and natural perfume. Vanilla adds a comforting, warm and beautiful scent. It blends well with other scents and helps to “fix’ your scent-it holds the scent longer.

You will need:

16 ounce canning jar (1 pint) or bottle
2 Vanilla Beans
16 ounces Jojoba Oil














1. Pour 16 ounces jojoba oil into a clean glass jar or bottle.
                                     



2. Split the beans open by cutting down the middle of the bean, then cut into small pieces and add to jojoba oil. Close lid tightly.














3. Lightly shake jar every now and then. Store in a cool place for 4-6 weeks.
















4. Strain the oil through muslin or an unbleached coffee filter placed in a funnel. The shelf life is at least 2 years.

To learn more information on making herbal oils. How to Make 47 Botanical~Herbal Extracts for Body, Hair & Skin Care Products, e-book by Joan Morais. See more information>>>

Watch this video on a Quick 2-Day Method to Infuse Oils

July 4, 2010

Introduction to Cold Process Soapmaking Class August 8, 2010 in San Francisco

Soapmaking is Pure Fun and Joy!
Learn to Make the Best Ever Cold Process Soap with Joan Morais

August 8, 2010, Sunday in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco
11:00 am-2:00 pm
$43 plus $5 materials fee
REGISTRATION DEADLINE 7/30/10
Join me as I demonstrate the basics of traditional cold process soap making using all-natural herbs and essential oils. This is a tried and true simple method you will be able to go home and make.
            
Where: Sharon Art Studio in Golden Gate Park

Parking lot in front of the building but allow enough time to park.

We will be in the "Glass Room" with spectacular light and lots of work space.

Bring a sack lunch; we will take a short break and eat on the terrace.

Bring your Family-while you attend your soap class
your family can  play in the childrens area or have a picnic.

Ride the Carousel

Fly a Kite

Check out other classes offered by the historic Sharon Art Studio

More class information here>>>
Registration here>>>
Directions, Public Transportation and Contact Infromation here>>>

June 28, 2010

Clear Skin and Shiny Hair; Nettles

One of the best herbs for clear skin and shiny hair is nettles. Drink it as a tea, use it for fresh hair and skin care or in your formulations. Nettles cleanses the blood, nourishes and tones the body and the skin. It's rich in vitamins and minerals promoting vibrant skin and shiny hair. Nettle tea also makes a great  fertilizer for your plants.


Make an Infusion with Nettles
Use this infusion to drink as a tea or as a fresh skin toner or fresh hair rinse. Use within two days.
Place 4 tablespoons of dried organic nettle or 8 tablespoons fresh leaf in a glass jar (like a juice jar-one that won't shatter from boiling water), pour 4 cups of boiling water over the nettles. Let it sit overnight or for at least half a day. Strain out the nettles. Drink 1-2 cups a day, cool or warmed. Keep in the refrigerator for and use in 2 days.

You can also make a cup of regular hot tea with it. An excellent tea to drink springtime, early summer. Use 1 tablespoon dried nettles to 1 cup of boiling water. Let steep for 5 minutes. I know of a couple of people that drink it to help with their spring allergies. You can also add some honey to your hot tea.

Nettles makes a great extract with alcohol, apple cider vinegar or glycerin to use in products. For detailed information to make extracts for your formulations, see the newly release e-book, Make 47 Botanical~Herbal Extracts for Body, Hair & Skin Care Products using herbs, flowers, fruits & vegetables here.

Organic Nettle available here  Mountain Rose Herbs

here  Pacific Botanicals

June 14, 2010

How to Make Lavender Herbal Oil

Lavender is in full bloom right now. This is the time to harvest lavender and to make products with lavender. Lavender calms, soothes and relaxes muscles and at the same time is uplifting. Lavender is anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic and antiseptic.


A FREE e-book, Lavender: Varieties to Grow and Use in Skin Care Products by Joan Morais is in the current e-newsletter Aromatherapy Edition sign-up here.

Check your area for any lavender festivals. They are happening now and are a lot of fun. For northern California read about lavender festivals here.
How to Make Lavender Herbal Oil
you will need:
~Dried Lavender Flowers (organic if possible)
~Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Sunflower oil or Jojoba oil (organic if possible)
~Glass Jar

Where to Purchase LavenderDried lavender is available at farmers markets, lavender festivals and Mountain Rose Herbs. If you purchase the lavender on the stem, hold the flower buds over a bowl and slide them off the stem into the bowl. Save the dried stems for your fireplace to help start the fire and to add a lavender scent.

Directions to Make Lavender Oil1. Crush lavender flowers (a mortar and pestle works great for this). Crushing the lavender flowers exposes more herb to the oil. The lavender buds don’t have to be crushed and can be used whole.
2. Fill glass jar with lavender to about 3/4 full.
3. Cover the lavender with extra virgin olive oil or other oils suggested; make sure all lavender is covered with oil. Close lid tightly.
4. Store jar in a cool and dry place for four weeks. The first few days, open lid and make sure lavender is completely covered with oil.
5. Now strain the lavender out of the oil. Place an unbleached coffee filter or a piece of muslin in a funnel over a clean jar.
6. Label and date. You now have a luxurious lavender herbal oil with a beautiful lavender scent.

Uses for Lavender Oil

~Bath Oil: add 2-3 teaspoons of lavender herbal oil to the bath water to moisturize the skin, help relieve stress and to bring you back into balance and harmony.
~Body Oil: since the skin is the largest organ of our body the herbal properties of lavender oil are absorbed through the skin helping to moisturize, balance and protect the skin.
~Product Making: use the lavender oil in your handmade lotion, cream, body butter, cold process soap, etc.

May 30, 2010

Salt Scrubs

Salt Scrubs are a great way to brighten, invigorate and nourish the skin. A salt scrub leaves the skin feeling soft and moisturized. There is no need to use a lotion. Salt scrubs help to increase circulation and the flow of the lymph system.

How to Use a Salt Scrub: Wash your body first with soap or body wash. Apply salt scrub to skin by massaging in circular motions. Start the scrub on the feet and move upwards towards the heart. Next apply the scrub to the hands and move upwards towards the heart. Don't use on the face. After shower or bath, lightly pat skin dry. Use once a week.

TIP: To prevent a slippery shower floor or bathtub: Keep baking soda close by and sprinkle it in the shower or bathtub to absorb oil after using a salt scrub.

Grapefruit Salt Scrub
(make right before a shower or bath)

1/2 cup sea salt
4 tablespoons grapeseed oil
6 drops grapefruit essential oil

Mix all ingredients together.

March 6, 2010

Make Lotions, Creams, Balms, Butters, Facial Products, Bath Products

Don't Miss Out!
Natural Skin & Body Care Products Course 1 Starting Soon March 19, 20, 21, 2010
Now is the Time to Learn a New Trade.



-Discover secrets on formulating natural products.
-Lots of hands on training, personal instruction, exclusive ingredients and tips shared only in this course.
-Course can assist as a foundation for starting or improving a business in natural skin & body care products

Sign up for 1, 2 0r all 3 days!
When: March 19, 20 & 21, 2010
Friday, Saturday & Sunday
Where: Hampton Inn & Suites, Suisun City, California
Time: 9:30am-5:00pm
Cost: $750 for 3-Day Course (includes $140 materials fee)
or $275 per workshop, Sign-up for 1, 2 or all 3 workshops.
More Information: Call 707 426-9480
Email: info@joanmorais.com
To register & complete description go here>>

Exquisite skin care products: moisturizing body lotion, anti-oxidant facial cream,anti-wrinkle eye balm, purifying facial toner, facial cleansing milk, nourishing mineral mask and regenerating serum.

Luxurious bath and body products:conditioning lip balm, creamy whipped body butter, stress relief fizzing bath balls and cellulite body scrub.

Take 16 products with you plus an extensive and informative manual (over 150 pages).

This is a basic intensive course designed to give you all the fundamentals you need to know on making and selling your own natural products. No experience is necessary.

Receive a Certificate of completion for 18 hours of training with Joan Morais;
Natural Skin & Body Care Products Course I.

February 12, 2010

How to Rebatch Soap

This post is from Sarva Natural Artisan Soaps.
Try her soaps, they are beautiful and your skin will love them. This is the only type of soap I use; handcrafted and made with pure, all-natural ingredients.

It’s rebatching time

As I discussed in an earlier post, I’m often asked, “what do you do with all of your soap scraps?” Sometimes the result can be very, very beautiful. However, the most correct answer is, “it depends.” Some soap scraps are beautiful additions to new soaps. Others, however, have a different fate.

I’m going to show you a soapmaking project that you can do yourself! No worries… the lengthy instructions belie the absolute simplicity of the project.

Rebatching is a fun way to transform ugly odds and ends of soap, otherwise destined for your garbage, into perfectly usable, cool-looking soap. There are as many methods are there are soapmakers, but this is what I find to be easiest.

Please note that this process can only be done with REAL soap. Save your Sarva Soaps scraps, or any other handcrafted or “true” soap. Detergent bars or “moisturizing bars” or the like are NOT soap (and aren’t biodegradable!). If the ingredient label lists “sodium hydroxide”, or says “saponified oils of…”, then you’re good to go.

Tools:

•food processor with grating blade, or a hand grating tool
•a “soap mold” (some ideas: small cardboard or wooden box, clean milk carton with one side cut off, or a glass baking dish without a lid )*
•parchment paper to line your mold
•glass baking dish with lid (the lid is important) (and if you use a glass baking dish for your mold, you need a separate one with a lid too)
•bowl or bucket to collect soap scraps
•bowl or bucket to hold soap after you’ve grated it
•oven
•stainless steel spoon (MUST be stainless steel!)
•stainless steel blade (MUST be stainless steel!)
•time and patience (this is best done over a weekend)
*Alternative mold idea: Silicone ice cube or muffin “tin” – you don’t need to line it! But please don’t use it for food after you’ve used it for rebatching.

Ingredients:

•soap scraps (for personal use, it is fine to save scraps from used soaps, but for my purposes, I rebatch only clean, sanitary scraps that have been in long-term sealed storage)
•water (distilled is best, but tap will do)
•optional: essential oils (or fragrance oils if you are so inclined; I personally do not use synthetic substances)
•optional: milk (cow’s milk works best but is not vegan; substitutes are coconut milk or soy milk)
Procedure:

1. Collect all of your scraps of soap. I suspect you’ll have a lot less than I do!

2. Run scraps through your food processor with the grating blade in place. I use my studio’s food processor, which is dedicated solely to soapmaking. But it’s okay if you use your own kitchen food processor as long as your soaps are for personal use. Just be sure to soak it until all of the soap rinses off, then wash it thoroughly. You may also use a hand grating tool. You’ll end up with grated soap, below:

3. Add water to moisten your grated soap and stir it with your hands to distribute. How much water, you ask? Um… I eyeball it. Not a lot. Enough to make it a bit slick, but you don’t want to start sudsing your soap or have pools of water in your container. Even if you add too much, it’s okay. The worst that will happen is your rebatched soap will take longer to harden. Maximum amount would be 1/4 cup total liquids (water plus milk) to pound of soap. If you’re adding milk, wait until you are just about to put the soap in the oven. Don’t let the soap sit out overnight with milk in it! (Sorry, no photo here)

3a. Cover your shredded soap and let it sit, ideally overnight. This lets the water sink in and soften your scraps.

4. Here’s the “quick and dirty” method to deciding what size mold you’ll need: Take your grated soap and pack it into the mold you have in mind. See if it fits, maybe overflowing a bit. Does it work out? Great, you have your mold! No? Find a different one!

Here’s my method: I weigh my soap shreds on my soapmaking scale. Since I know how much soap (in pounds) each of my molds yields, I can easily choose a mold. In my case, I have about 15 pounds of scraps this time around.

You’ll need to line your mold completely with baking parchment. I didn’t take a photo of this step – everyone has their own method.

5. When your grated soap is softened (just a little squishy), turn on your oven to about 200 degrees. Pack the soap scraps into the lidded glass baking dish. Put the lid on, and put your soap in the oven. Don’t leave the house, don’t take a nap, don’t forget about your soap! Plan some meals, read the paper, have a cup of coffee with a loved one, do a puzzle… enjoy time in your kitchen, what used to be the center of our homes. Dawdle! It’s a lost art.

Check your soap now and then. Take it out and stir it with your stainless steel spoon every 20-30 minutes. Oh dear… it looks like shreds of soap in some really weird mashed potato-like gel! Yes… that’s good! And after a couple hours (give or take; this is not a scientific process), despite the funny smell (hey, it’s cooking soap), nearly all of the soap will be “gellified”, like below:

You can let it get really gellified if you want, but you must watch it carefully so it doesn’t boil and make a mess of your oven. I like to keep it “less gellified”, because then I still see little flecks of color in the finished product. I took mine out of the oven at this point.

5a. This is where you’d add any fragrance or essential oils. Your first time, I suggest you don’t add anything. But once you get comfy with the process, you can add about 1 tsp or so of scent per pound of soap. Stir thoroughly! (side note: you can “superfat” by adding extra oils too, if you want, such as almond, olive, or castor… add only 1/2 tsp per pound of soap)

6. Glop the soap into your mold. Glop really is the best word.

Now, because I care about you, I must warn you. This is HOT. It was in the oven for a couple hours, it holds heat, it’s gooey like candle wax, and it’s HOT! I know… I know… it’s obvious. But it’s easy to just think, “oh hey, soap” and forget that it’s HOT!

Put on an oven mitt, put a piece of parchment over top of the soap, and press it down, down, down so that it packs into the mold. Otherwise you’ll get big air gaps, and that looks funny. Take out all your frustrations on your poor soap. It can handle it. But you must work fast!

I ran several molds of this size over an extended period of time, so here’s one of mine:

7. Let this cool for several hours… or overnight is fine… and cut into slices, chunks, whatever you like. Use a kitchen knife or any clean stainless steel blade. It doesn’t have to be sharp. I used my super fancy industrial soapmaker’s slicer, and here’s what I got:

8. When you first slice it, it will be a bit soft. No worries. Let it harden for at least 1-2 weeks, maybe longer. It’s usable right away, but the longer it hardens, the longer it lasts.

Cleanup: Be sure to soak all of your dishes, spoons, etc., for a long time in water. Once the soap has softened and rinses right off, just wash everything thoroughly. If you do this often, you really should dedicate a set of utensils and bowls specifically to this task.

9. Use and enjoy! And save the scraps from these soaps, because you can keep on rebatching.

Since I accumulate so many scraps, I routinely donate my rebatched soap to the local homeless shelter association. This time around, I had enough to make about 130 mini bars for them. Our homeless shelters are very much in need these days. While I don’t recommend you donate your rebatched soap (because it’s made of used soap scraps), do please consider contacting your local agencies to see what they need, be it supplies, a donation, or even the gift of your time. If you’re like me, it’ll make your spirit smile.

About Sarva Natural Artisan Soaps
Sarva is a Sanskrit term meaning “whole”, reflective of the philosophy that we should be whole in all ways… mind, body, and spirit. Further, the things we use–eat, touch, wear, put in AND on our bodies–should be whole, healthy, pure, and natural.

Sarva is a small, woman-owned company created by an artisan with a passion for soapmaking and holistic living. Every bar of Sarva soap is handcrafted in true artisanal fashion, a process which takes four weeks for each and every bar!

All Sarva soaps are entirely natural and cruelty-free, made with pure vegetable oils, herbs, essential oils, clays, and botanicals. Never do we use synthetic fragrances or pigments, nor will you find laboratory-created oxide-based pigments. Everything in Sarva soaps comes straight from nature.